MARTIN'S GUIDE TO WINE BARGAINS

 

P.O. Box 1543, Culver City, Ca. 90232 - (310) 474-7773 – WEINER@VintageWineEnterprises.com - www.VintageWineEnterpises.com-Sub. Rate $58/yr.-Associated with Los Angeles School of Wines

VOLUME 20 , NO. 10 19th YEAR JULY 20, 2009


I WAS ASTOUNDED AT THE QUALITY OF THIS CALIFORNIA CHATEAUNEUF LOOK-ALIKE

2004 LE CIGARE VOLANT, Btld. BONNY DONN VINEYARDS

   Prior to trying this 2004, I had not sampled this Chateau­neuf-du-Pape look-alike Santa Cruz mountain area red, in at least five years.  I had always liked the wine particularly in the early 1980’s and recently enjoyed them but felt they were pricey.  Then along comes this 2004 and I don’t know if the reason for its very good quality is the vintage or the five years of aging, but what ever it is I was most impressed with this medium to full-bodied red.  I would have loved to serve it blindfold next to well-known Chateauneufs,

   The wine exhibits a brick red color, accompanied by flavors and aromas of roasted almonds, currants, fresh herbs, dark pepper and mushrooms, along with an appeal­ing earthiness in the background.  As five years of age the wine is now ideal drinking and should continue so for another 4 to 6 years.

   The wines a blend of the major varieties found in the Southern Rhone, being 38% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 8% Carigagnane and 7% Cinsault.  Though most Chateauneuf-du-Papes contain a greater percent of Grenache, the Rhone blend that this wine most resem­bles is what most experts would say is the best estate in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chateau Beaucastel. 

  The label name means, “flying cigar.”  Why?  Because in 1954 the town council of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was worried about flying saucers landing in the vineyards and they passed a town ordinance, banning such land­ings.  As to the name, Flying Saucers in French go by the designation of Flying Cigars, hence Le Cigare Volani.

RATING:  91 maybe even 92

PRICE: $29.99

WHERE: Wally’s Wine & Spirits 2107 Westwood Blvd., West L.A. ===========

THE ’07 COTES DU RHONE WINNER’S KEEP ROLLING IN AT GREAT PRICES

2007 COTES-DU-RHONE, DOMAINE LES GRANDS BOIS, CUVEE LES TROIS SOEURS

    You may have noticed in this and other recent issues of the Guide a goodly amount of recommendations of modest priced Rhone wines and wines using the same varieties as these Rhone’s and very much in their style.   Why?  Because so many of these wines are very well made and are a real value in there relatively modest cost.

   A very good example is this Cotes du Rhone Domaine Les Grands Bois, special Cuvee les Tres Soeurs (the “select batch of the three sisters”), which at $12.99 is an outstanding bargain for this medium to full-bodied red.

     Taking the cue from Robert Parker the 2007 south­ern Rhone vintage is magnificent, and easily may be the best vintage since 1990 and maybe even better.  One of the nicest and best values I tried is this ’07 Domaine Grands Bois, made from a blend of 65 percent Grenache with the rest being equally divided between Syrah and Carignan.  The bouquet evokes dark and red ripe berries, anise and a hint of roasted almonds.  The flavors in this part robust, part velvety wine include dark cherries, plums, and cassis along hints of white pepper and truf­fles.  It is now most approachable and may even gain with a year or two in the bottle and keep well until 2015.

   On line the usual price ranges from $15 to $18, with Beverage Warehouse having it on special for under $12.

RATING:  88/89

PRICE:  $11.99,  **bargain

WHERE: Beverage Warehouse ============

   LOVED THIS $18.99 LANGUEDOCRHONE LOOK ALIKE!

2005 DOMAINE de NIZAS, Coteaux du Languedoc

   O.K. maybe “loved” is a bit cavalier when it comes to ones response to a wine.  Nevertheless, cavalier or not, this wine certainly surprised me with its unexpected quality.  For it astonished me that the Languedoc could produce a red wine of this quality at its modest price of $18.99.  The wines a fascinating blend of 60% Syrah, 35% Mourvedre and a 5% dab of Grenache, resulting in a wonderful cross between a northern Rhone (i.e. Hermit­age) and the best of Bandol (the premium wine of Provence).   This medium bodied to full-bodied, vel­vety ’05, with only the hint of tannin, is now ideal for consumption and will keep well until around 2012-2015.  Don’t miss buying this wine, whose 2004-made Wine Spectators list of the 100 best wines (whoopee). 

   When consuming this wine with dinner I was jotting down my tasting notes and later when I goggled the producer’s site, I read his description and found it sure tailed with my opinion, but in a better descriptive way.  So here it is (with a most slight modification on my part), “This wine is deep garnet in color, with fragrant aromas of blackberries, bilberries (European blueberries) and spices. The distinctive herbal notes commonly found in wines around the Mediterranean called garrigue—laven­der, sage, rosemary and wild thyme—speak to the wine’s regional character as expressed in its terroir. The palate is well balanced and clean, becoming round and full-bodied, with soft, ripe tannins and a long finish. Enjoy­able now or age for up to five years in a cool cel­lar.”

RATING:      90/91

PRICE:    $18.99,  **bargain

WHERE: Wally’s Wine & Spirits =========

ENCHANTING, READY TO ENJOY VERY GOOD ’05 HAUT-MEDOC BDX.

2005 CHATEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE, Haut-Medoc

   Though I have driven passed the Chateau, this is the first time I have tried their wine.  This is a softer, velvety style Haut-Medoc akin to a fine Margaux.  There’s lots of Cabernet character, but the velvet softness one associ­ates with Merlot is evident

  The Chateau changed owner in 1996 and I understand there vineyard improvements are beginning to take hold

   Except for adding that the wine has a noticeable tastes and aromas of anise and currents, I agree with Robert Parker when he rated the wine an 89 and said. “A big-time sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 Cambon La Pelouse possesses a dark ruby/purple hue as well as an exotic, flamboyant, fruity bouquet of black cherries, wood smoke, tobacco, and spice. Lush, round, and opu­lent, it is ideal for drinking over the next 5-6 years. This huge property (around 150 acres), is sandwiched between Cantemerle and Giscours, has released a blend of 50% Merlot and the rest primarily Cabernet Sauvi­gnon with dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. There are 17,500 cases of the 2005, undoubtedly the finest wine ever made at this estate.”  

RATING: 90/91,

PRICE $19.95

WHERE: Los Angeles Wine Co. ============

ONE OF THE BEST BUYS AROUND FOR A ’05 BDX. UNDER $25.00

2005 CHATEAU POTENSAC,

Appellation MEDOC

   In checking my notes and memory, I note that I have had at least 20 various vintages of Chateau Pontensac and this 2005 is the best one yet.  Which considering the over-all high standards of this estate, is saying quite a bit. 

   This ’05 has a dark almost deep purple color accompa­nied by aromas and tastes of currants, dark cherries and noticeable hints of cedar wood and unsweetened choco­late.   The wine has an exceptional texture, a complexity that stays on the palate and a definite, but certainly not over-powering tannic level that gives the wine a fine backbone and a firm structure.  I certainly enjoyed this medium to full-bodied ‘05 a few nights ago (when I had it with a mediocre dinner at the Westside Tavern with its terrible sandwich breads).   As pleasant as it now is, the wine will certainly reward keeping and will improve for another six or more years and keep well until the 2020’s.

   Chateau Potensac is on the northern end of the Medoc “peninsula” where it covers about 130 acres planted in 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 15% Caber­net Franc.

    The production of Potensac comes from a team under the leadership of the Delon family who operate the world-famous Grand Cru Chateau Leoville las Cases.  Aging occurs usually for 12 to 18 months (and almost 20 in the case of this exceptional ’05) in small casks of which about 20% are new.  This wood aging is notice­able in this ‘05’s appealing bouquet overtones of vanilla.

   Regular price is around $32 plus with L. A. Wine Co. having it on special for under $25.00

RATING:        92

PRICE:   $24.95   ***bargain

WHERE: Los Angeles Wine Co. =========

THE BEST OF THE ’07 GERMAN WINES I’VE RECENTLY TASTED

2007 LIESER NIEDERBERG HELDEN RIESLING SPATLESE, Est. Btld. SCHLOSS LIESER

    I’ve tasted nearly two dozen Kabinett and Spatlese German wines in the past month or so and even recom­mended a couple in the last issue of this Guide.  Satur­day before last I finally got around to trying this ’07, Lieser Spatlese from Schloss Lieser and it’s the best of them all.

   Though there is definite sweetness in this ’07, it is nowhere in the range of a dessert wine.  Especially when you factor in its excellent refreshing balanced acid level, giving you a fine wine to serve with chicken, pork and veal, and it was a marvelous accompaniment to a superb lunch, my Saturday wine group had at K-ZO Japa­nese restaurant in Culver City (that cities best eat­ery in my opinion).   The wine has classic clean Riesling character as evinced in its nose of fresh apples and damp pine needles and flavors of grapefruit, apricots and baked apples -- ending with that appealing flintiness so desirable in good Riesling wines.

   This Mosel comes from one of the smaller hamlets, that of Lieser which adjoins Bernkastel-Kues and across the river from the noted Brauneberg Juffer vineyard.  This particular Lieser comes from its most famous vine­yard Niederberg-Helden, which is located entirely on a steep hillside, covering about 60 acres and facing South-South-West, (which is important as this facing gives it maximum exposure to the sun).  The producer is now one of the shinning stars of the Mosel, Weingut Schloss Lieser (literally The Winery of the Castle of Lieser). 

RATING:  92

PRICE:   $17.95

WHERE: Los Angeles Wine Co. ==========

   SENSATIONAL $11.99 BOLD RIOJA RED!

2006 DOMINIO De HEREDIA, RIOJA (SPAIN)

   This is the first time I have had a wine from Rioja’s Dominio de Heredia, and what a pleasant surprise it turned out to be.  I’ve been drinking Rioja wines for nearly 50 years and the overwhelming majority in the under $25 to even $40 price range (let along $11.99) tend at their best to be subtly pleasant and more often just light and forgettable.     Then at dinner a few nights ago, I opened this ’06 and it bowled me over with the depth and richness I just was not expecting.  I did not recall the price but figured it was something in the $18 to $22 range, well, you can imagine my delight when I discovered it sold for only $11.99 (regular price is around $15-$16).

   The first hint you have that this Dominio de Heredia walks to a different Rioja drummer is the wines deep ruby red color.  In the aromas and tastes of this winner, I noticed intense dark berries and ripe blueberries plus oolong tea, currants, vanilla oak and a trace of chocolate.   Rioja wines carry a reputation for light often unnotice­able tannins, however this ’06 Heredia has just enough to give it a nice added dimension, all-be-it still in a light subtle manner. Great for present consumption, the wine will keep well until 2015 or so.

   Like most Rioja wines, this Domino de Heredia comes 100% from Tempranillo.  The wine is aged in regular size barrels for five months of which 70% are French and 30% American.  I feel that one of the quality factors to this wine is that it uses a much higher percent of French oak barrels then most of their completion.

RATING:  90 (Compared to other Spanish wines in its price range it deserves a 95+).

PRICE:   $11.99  ***bargain

WHERE: Beverage Warehouse ===========

 A side note on a $2.99 Trader Joe’s Import.  2006 HANGTIME, BOURGOGNE-PINOT NOIR.

   Do I recommend this imported answer to “two buck chuck?”  I’m not sure. but I do know it’s a drinkable step up from the “two buck” fellow.  With its intense fruit, it can best be described as Beaujolais look-alike, all be it with some hint of Pinot Noir somewhere in the back­ground.

   If you want an “el cheapo” red under $3, you can’t do better then this ’06 (which may not be saying a lot).

   Where it has, a definite spot is that at $2.99 and with its fresh quality, this is the wine to cook with, particu­larly when you are making a Boeuf Bourgogne.

FORTUNATE 14 SUMMER TASTING/DINNERS

(Events limited to 14 persons)

***Both events filled, how­ever there is a waiting list for the Great Spanish

MONTRACHETS & GRAND CRU WHITE BURGUNDIES + 3 GREAT CORTON-ROUGE

FRIDAY, JULY 24th , 2009

$315.00 including dinner and French Cheese course

=========

SPAIN’S RAREST & MOST MAGNIFICENT WINES – A CORNUCOPIA OF HIGH PARKER RATINGS

FRIDAY, AUGUST 21st, 2009

$375 including dinner and imported rare cheeses course

  In all the 35 years plus of offering wine tastings, this one on Spain has the highest average Parker rating of any event we ever held.  With many wines rated 100, 99, 98 and 97.

 

FOR FULL LIST OF ALL THE WINES, DETAILED EVENT DESCRIPTION OR TO BE ON THE WAITING LIST, PLEASE CONTACT

(310) 474-7773

mwwine@msn.com

========

SPECIAL NOTICE

   Within a week, a first sneak pre­view notice will be on the way to you Guide readers about the three autumn 2009 events.

One on NAPA VALLEY’S GREATEST CABERNET SAUVIGNONS – Scream­ing Eagle, Scarecrow, Harlan, Colgin, Togni. etc

One on LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD, LATOUR & PICHON-LALANDE (1949-1982-2005)

One on GREAT RICH BURGUNDIES OF ROMANEE, CLOS DE LA ROCHE & ECHEZEAUX with 1990 Riche­bourg DRC (greatest Richebourg of the 20th century),

La Tache 1989, Clos de la Rohce 1993 Leroy (Parker 100) & numerous DRC wines etc.